Once upon a time, a lawless villain and troublesome marauder roamed the Hunter Valley scrub around Broke and Pokolbin. His name was William White, aka Yellow Billy. For years he evaded capture from the local police force. No doubt, he cooked with fire to survive.

Cut to 150 years later, and a scene where two Hunter Valley chefs and a certified sommelier are putting the name of this notorious Yango bushranger above the door of their new Pokolbin restaurant. In the grounds of Piggs Peake winery, and cellar door on Hermitage Road, Yellow Billy is more than just a welcome addition to the Hunter Valley dining scene; it’s a spark of genius.

“We want everyone to come and enjoy food that’s full of flavour and served with great wines and hospitality,” says one of three incarnates of Yellow Billy, renowned Hunter Valley chef, Emerson Rodriguez.

“The concept is for honest, fire focused food that’s designed to be shared in a relaxed atmosphere…” adds Yellow Billy’s second incarnate, experienced chef, Sam Alexander.

“… Relaxed and casual, with an ever changing wine and drinks list,” Yellow Billy’s third incarnate, sommelier and restaurant manager, Patrick Hester, says, as if finishing Alexander’s sentence.

Harnessing the power of fire over a custom-built pit, the chefs cook a mouth-watering array of veggies and proteins, fast or slow, charred, blistered or singed, using a mix of ironbark and maple timbers.

The food menu is a thoughtful homage to Alexander’s family heritage, featuring loads of transcontinental inspired flavours, seasonings and spices.

“There are a lot of Middle Eastern and Moroccan flavours on the menu thanks to the influence of my parents and grandparents,” Alexander explains.

“A lot of Egyptian, Italian and Greek flavours split with those unmistakable flavours of traditional Australian roasts, cakes, pickles and relishes, which I ate as a kid.” 

Fire roasted cashews are crushed and broken and served with a slightly sticky, salted sage praline. House-made flat bread is char-marked and crispy; use it to lather a smoky helping of baba ganoush, goats fetta and pine nuts. Smoke infused barbecue squid is crispy in parts, al dente in others, resting in a deeply red, spiced paste known as, ras el hanout.

“When Sam and I walked into the newly constructed kitchen, we were still trying to figure out what type of cooking we wanted to do. Then, for some reason, we both looked at each other and said, ‘Fire!’,” Rodriguez says.

Although, disappointingly, you can’t see the fire from the restaurant – the theatre of the flames alone would be captivating –  there’s no doubt you can smell it in the air and on the food. Sides like fried Brussel sprouts with parmesan and truffle oil, or honey roasted cauliflower will surely make you a lover of these much maligned vegetables, instantly. All the textures, juxtaposed; flaky, charred and crispy, soft and yielding, enlivened with incredible flavour from the fire and spice.

How about some protein? Straight from the pit – which Alexander gets going every morning before service at around 5am – comes suckling pigs from Cowra and Lovedale, lamb from Pukara’s olive oil estate near Muswellbrook, free range and roasted chicken, plus beefy cuts of steak and sirloin, which should keep the carnivores content.

Apt accompaniments highlight, contrast and complement, as and when required.

The pork, for example, is lacquered with a sticky and sumptuous demi-glaze, a side of apple jam and shards of loud and crunchy crackling.

“Rest assured, you will find plenty of wines to match the food coming from the fire pit and kitchen,” asserts Yellow Billy’s sommelier and restaurant manager, Patrick Hester.

“The beer list has a lot of local brewers featured and we have sodas, tonics and mineral water exclusively from Strange Love too.”

Local spirit guide Chris Woodger has written a classic cocktail list with a few fresh twists and turns thrown in for good measure.

While you’re sure to be an ardent admirer of the food from the fire, save some of that desire for dessert. An orange blossom syrup cake served with saffron mascarpone is a piquant citrus refresher. And an indulgent mouthful of chocolate cheesecake, cream and shiraz reduction truly deserves a taste, just before you begin unbuckling your belt.

“Humans have been cooking with fire for thousands of years. There is an art to it,” Rodriguez says.

“We’re just continuing that tradition from the past.”

And, just in case you were wondering, Yellow Billy’s custom fire pit has been built so it can burn safely during the summer. They have applied for a total fire ban exemption, which will allow them to cook on total fire bans, during summer, pending approval from the NSW Rural Fire Service.